On my recent trip to Spain, it was confirmed that Barcelona is one of the most unique and interesting cities in Europe I have been to. It’s now a favourite place of mine and I can’t wait to return.
Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia (or Catalunya in the local Catalan language), which is an autonomous community in north-eastern Spain. Catalonia became part of Spain back in 1469 when the regions of Spain were unified by the marriage of the “Catholic Monarchs” (King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile). However, since the 19th century there has been a strong political and social movement seeking its independence. Catalonia remains quite distinct from other Spanish regions in regards to its history, culture, language and cuisine.
The Eixample (pronounced “eye-shamp-le”, meaning “expansion”) district of Barcelona was developed in the 19th century to accommodate a growing population thanks to the Industrial Revolution. It is situated on the periphery of the old city quarter (or Ciutat Vella) and is characterised by its grid-like layout and clean, wide streets lined with beautiful plane trees. The architects of the Eixample district, including Gaudí, Cadafalch, and Montaner, followed the modernisme movement which was influenced by Catalan nationalism. As such, these architects forged a modern, distinct Catalan identity through their creations. Key elements in the modernista buildings you will see in the Eixample are curved and asymmetrical shapes, colourful mosaics and stained glass, wrought iron, motifs from nature, and the use of symbolism. A lot of the architectural works in the Eixample are UNESCO world heritage sites and when you see them, you’ll understand why. There are glimpses of beauty all around you when you wander through this district’s streets.
Above: Casa Batlló exterior
How to get there:
From Barcelona El Prat airport (assuming you will be arriving here), your best options are to get a taxi or the Aerobus.
Getting a taxi is the quickest and most comfortable, although it will set you back around 45-55 euros one way.
The Aerobus is a more economical option, with a one way ticket costing only 7.25 euro. However, if you’ve got very heavy bags it may not be the best way to go. You can buy tickets in advance or on the self-service machines at the airport. If you’re staying in the Eixample, you would need to get off at the Plaça Catalunya stop.
Where to stay:
The Eixample is an incredibly convenient district to stay in and most of the main highlights of Barcelona are within walking distance (or a short metro or taxi ride away).
My recommendations for accommodation in the Eixample are primarily based on comfort and location:
Catalonia Passeig de Gracia. Gran Via de les Corts Catalans, 644. L’Eixample 08007.
Renaissance Barcelona Hotel. Carrer de Pau Claris, 122. L’Eixample 08009.
What to do:
1) Do a tour of La Sagrada Família. If there’s only one thing you do in Barcelona, you need to visit Antoni Gaudí’s masterpiece, La Sagrada Família (The Sacred Family). I was absolutely awestruck by it and learnt so much. Situated in the right (dreta) side of the Eixample, it is easily accessible by foot if you’re staying in this district.
I strongly suggest you book tickets well in advance and get an audio guide or a guided tour. You really don’t want to miss out on this. I did the audio guide on my visit there and it very informative and clear, but for my next visit I might want to give a guided tour a go. I’d also recommend going on a weekday early morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the worst crowds.
2) Walk down the Passeig de Gracia:
This is one of the main streets that exhibits architectural delights of modernisme all around you. Here, you’ll find 3 of the finest examples of modernista architecture that exist in the Eixample:
Casa Batlló is one of Gaudí’s masterpieces. It is entirely eclectic and like something out of a fairytale. Don’t miss this one!
Casa Amatller is right next door to Casa Batlló. The house museum is well preserved and it’s like taking a stepping into history. There’s a great cafe there too where you can get an amazing hot chocolate!
Casa Milà is another Gaudi project which is nicknamed La Pedrera (“the stone quarry”) due to its facade. I absolutely loved the rooftop terrace.
If you’re a bit of a Gaudi fan like me, I strongly recommend going to one or all of these houses, time permitting. My tip: book your tickets and guided tours in advance to these sites, it makes it easier (and cheaper).
Above: Casa Milà exterior
Where to eat:
The Eixample has plentiful cafes, bars and restaurants. You won’t be short of amazing places to eat and drink at! Some of the best ones I came across were:
Bar Mut. This is a great wine and tapas bar in Carrer de Pau Claris, a street off Passeig de Gracià. Sophisticated and cosy inside, it serves absolutely delicious food and wine. I enjoyed a hearty steak with roast potatoes and padrón peppers accompanied by a beautiful fresh salad.
Cafe del Centre. This is a modernist cafe/restaurant and it feels like stepping back in time. I loved the Catalan-style cannelloni (canelons) and the vanilla tart with liqueur toffee was a great way to top off a fantastic meal.
Betlem. This is an authentic and atmospheric bar in the area. There’s an excellent selection of seasonal tapas.
Farggi 1957. Located on Passeig de Gracia, this is an ideal place to stop for a gelato whilst you’re wandering through this beautiful area.
Above: Cafe del Centre
Where to shop:
The Eixample is a shopper’s paradise (ideal for someone like me!). Boutiques line the Passeig de Gracià and you could easily spend a few hours wandering in and out of them all if that’s your cup of tea.
If you want to purchase some beautiful Spanish fashion and homewares, I suggest you head here:
Zara Home. This is the most gorgeous homeware shop ever! The style is modern and pretty, and items are affordable. If you’re looking for gifts to take home for friends and family, this is a great place to have a look at.
Massimo Dutti. My favourite clothing brand of all time. Their stylish, classic clothing and accessories are of excellent quality at reasonable prices. There are several stores in Barcelona but the biggest and best one I went to (yes, I went to them all) was the one in Carrer de Pau Claris. It was also situated in a beautiful modernista building (head to the top floor to see some stunning architectural elements).
Loewe. This is another store situated in a stunning modernista building designed by Montaner. Loewe is a designer Spanish brand with beautiful leather goods so you won’t find any bargains here. It doesn’t cost anything to have a look though!
El Corte Ingles. One of the best and largest department stores. There’s something for everyone here. Great food, homewares and fashion levels. Plus, the top floor has a food hall with 360 degree views of the city. Definitely grab something to drink or eat here after your spot of shopping.